Celebrity Culture

Julia Margaret Cameron – celebrity photographer late 19^th centaury early 20^th

Soft focus, enhancement of beauty – acting mythical scenes

Photographed – beautiful, educated, cultured women

Men where photographed differently

Louis aime augustin – inventor of the moving picture

1988 – first moving image

The artist – 2011 film created in the first moving picture style, a silent movie with over played sounds

Josephine baker – dancer – muse for art deco / contemporary painters

Influences – celebrities, glamour, music, fashion

Beyonce costume in reference to Josephine baker

Golden age for Hollywood – 1927-1960

The jazz singer- feature length moving picture with synchronised dialogue

Clarke Gable – ‘king of Hollywood’

Bette David – played unlikable characters

Marilyn Monroe - actress, singer – sex symbol – known for relationship with the Kennedy’s – image preserved by a young death

-       Andy Warhol endless repeat print

Andy Warhol factory – developing pop art using icons of the time

JFK president – pop

Advent of television – 1926 demonstration of televised moving images

‘Golden age’ begins late 40s

jacksons – brand

Own cartoon in which they would play themselves

Michael Jackson – appearance alteration – reaction to childhood abuse from his father – didn’t want to resemble him

Lady gaga - post post modern – reinvention of herself – looks/personalities?

Meat dress- fashion/feminist

You tube – allow regular people to become ‘famous’

Barac obama – pop president – hired Shepard fairey to create election posters – appeal to pop culture

Celebrity deaths – televised ceremonies – mass mourning

Parody photographs – shame celebrities – enhance their status – god like?

Social media – enable the following of celebrity – people can relate to and feel close to

Creative Rhetorics

Talking about creativity

'different artists often have quite divergent conceptions of what they are doing'
Harrison-Barbet

The blank sheet project

Renzo Rosso creative rhetoric –practise to begin, best idea is always your next one, make mistake and be stupid, collaboration
 
Mimesis – platos problem - critique of democracy
Art mimics - sensory world – denyed that creativity was knowledge producing

Westwern civilisation has roots in east and eygypt, which the geeks took influence…It did not begin with the greeks
classicism – roman greek
 
Academics - banaji (2006) 9 'rhetorics of creativity'
18^th C – romanticism – artist role became creators – no immitation
 
First art academy C14th  italy

Online collaboration/research
FutureEverything 2012
'people can collaborate...across networks to create...or participate in social revolutions'

Estudio is to create a space that mimis a professional studio

Study
75% agree media has given rise to collaboration
81% agree discussion/chat rooms support idea generation

87%/93% agree working online through teams is valuable experience

Communities of practice

'Little c' creativiy
VCOP eg. Websites, Blogs, Social Networks.
VCOP lifecycle - interest is built and then lost

SHOWstudio - Nick Knight – media visuals over all formats of creative

CSR-Corporate Social Responsibility

Flow - Psychological condition of being creative

Identity

Essentialism – who we are/biology

Relates to racism –

Post-modern theorists disagree

Historical phases of identity

•Pre modern identity – personal identity is stable – defined by long standing roles

•Modern identity – modern societies begin to offer a wider range of social roles. Possibility to start ‘choosing’ your identity, rather than simply being born into it. People start to ‘worry’ about who they are

•Post-modern identity – accepts a ‘fragmented ‘self’. Identity is constructed

Phrenology
Quack science - shape of the head can indicate what you may be like personality wise
Based on European people
Hitler used this as justification -(blonde hair, blue eyes)

Physiognomy - Intelligence - facial features.

Hieronymous Bosch

Chris Ofili – black Virgin Mary depiction

Pre modern identity - defined
Modern identity - choice
postmodern identity – you construct

Douglas Kellner:

Pre-Modern – marriage, church – depicts your identity

Modern -  'flaneur' (gentleman-stroller)

Leisure class - Rich enough to not work – displays of wealth openly to others – to flaunt

Fashion - Upper class use clothing – in turn the lower class follow using like for like items but cheaper

Simmel - being alone in a crowd - Alienation

Post-modern identity discourse

Foucault – identity is formed through age class gender – discourses – ‘otherness’

Humphrey Spender, Worktown project 1937
Martin Parr - The Last Resort 1983-86

Nationality
Alexander McQueen - highland rape – suggestive and about the taking of Scotland or ‘rape’  - Vivienne Westwood - Anglomania

Las Vegas – imitation of the world, in one city. Dream like.
 
Race/ethnicity
Chris Ofili - artists are white Europeans – assumption – uses his ethnicity in artworks - Captain shit - His response to a lack of black superheroes.

 
 Femininity  - Tracy Emin - Everyone I have ever slept with – names of people she had ever slept next to, people judge as sexual

wonderbra – hello boys, objectification of women, sex sells?

Post-modern condition – your Identity formed through social experiences throughout early life and throughout the rest
Geoffman - Life is a 'theatre' we act and put on performances as it where, we can choose who we want to be each day.

Subculture and Style

Subculture – separate from style it is reaction to environment

 Dogtown and z-boys (2001) zephyr skateboard scene, Vans sponsor the film. Creating cult images e.g. abandoned swimming pool as skate bowl

Ian Boarden - 'performing the city' – way to break barriers on city
Parcour/Freerunning – urban ‘escapist’ activities

Graffiti is a defining of space – owner ship claims – no discrimination McDonald - Female

Girl subcultures come second to male – male association is greater

Girls are seen as add on, not as great in the changes that a subculture is trying to create – always girlfriends or mother - accessory
 
Mod culture – women and men have similar styles – cult Quadrophenia (1979)
Hippy girl developed through 60s and 70s

Riot Grrrl – the following began from female rockers in 70s/80s – policical – making of home made zines-artwork

Brand styling to represent stereotypes of women at the time – spice girls

Self-publication of music and literature
punk begins to become commercial

Action against women in the 50s having to conform and behave in society

 
Skinheads follow on from mod culture - This is England (2006)

Popular Culture

Critically define pop culture

Contrast ideas of culture – pop culture – mass culture

What is culture?

-       Intellectual/inspirational/aesthetic development/ of a society at the time

-       A way of life

-       Intellectual and artistic works

Reality of society? – BASE

Capitalism produces culture

Base -> determines the content and form of superstructure

Base<- reflects form and legitimises superstructure

Ideologists – system of ideals/beliefs

Raymond Williams – 1983

Definitions of popular

-       Well liked by many, inferior work, culture made

E.g. graffiti when placed in an art gallery it becomes acceptable to society

Matthew Arnold – 1867 – culture and anarchy

Culture

-       Stud of perfection

-       Attained through reading/writing/thinking

-       Pursuit of culture

Cultural policies – culture is a disease

Pop culture is unreal – strive to CREATE something

Culture – substantial happening/timeless

Frankfurt school

Theodore adorno/max Herkimer

‘‘All mass culture is identical’’

‘‘The products indoctrinate and manipulate they promote false consciousness’’

Authentic culture vs. mass culture

Real, European, multi dimensional, imagination, individual creation

Culture industry – reality TV – exploits people

Pop culture – able to be a critic of all

Keep Your Email Secret

My personal email account has over 5000 emails in my inbox, and I would have an guess as to maybe 80-90% of them would be spam and a mere 47 in my 'Junk' folder. Email addresses are frequently sold on to 3rd party companies, even when sometimes the website you're signing up for states they won't pass on personal information, who sell it on again and so forth.

When I was at school, we used to sign people's emails up for, what we considered hilarious, variety of websites.

Nowadays, I receive a lot of spam of this nature...

Now, I have no idea why these companies started pursuing me or how they got my email, but an educated guess would be that somewhere among my internet activities, I have signed up for a website/newsletter and my information has been sold on.

"Your email address is a big part of your online identity. It's also a valuable source of revenue for people whose business involves supplying spammers with live addresses.
If the sites you register with aren't secure, hackers can access the database containing all the user credentials, and the email addresses are sure to be sold on.

It's also an unpleasant fact of online life that some website owners lie when they say they'll never give your email address to anyone else. This is predominantly a problem for users of adult sites. Your email address may be sold on to sites with similar themes, which then spam you as well as selling your address on to others.

When an online business folds, the owner might also decide the list of registered users is an asset worth selling."

So how can we stop this from happening?

You could simply have a separate email for when times like this are needed, as I have, but sometimes you forget and whatnot and now I have 3 email accounts with a ridiculous amount of emails in each.

The best solution I found depends on whether or not lengthy correspondence is required with whoever it was that was requesting your email. This involves signing up for a temporary email address, such as GuerillaMail which offers a 60 minute time frame, to do such business without your email account suffering.

City and Film

City modernism

Urban sociology – city a public / private

-       Postmodernism city = individual relation to the crowed

Greg Simmel – 1895-1918 - Metropolis and mental life.

The effect a built environment has on an individual

Herbert Beyer 1932

Lewis Hine photography

- Individual resistance to the city

Architect Louis Sullivan (1856-1924) – creator of modern skyscraper

"Form ever follows function"

Guaranty Building layout 

Skyscrapers – to represent power/the American dream and opportunity – big building big company ‘aspiration buildings’

Manhattan (1921)- Paul Strand and Charles Scheler – photograph of Ford Company at river rouge.

Fordism: - effect of factory on workers? Paid enough to buy goods?

Modern times - Charlie Chaplin (1936)

Society – his body is consumed by machine – the working age

Stock Market crash (1929) – lead to the great depression

French masculine noun flâneur—which has the basic meanings of "stroller", "lounger", "saunterer", "loafer’’

A person who walks through the city to experience it - Art captivation

Walter Benjamin - adopts urban observer concept

‘Arcades project’ -1927-40

The photographer as a flaneur

-       Susan sontag – photographer – especially in street photography photographer is ‘urban observer’

flaneuse

Invisible flaneuse – women and modernity

Susan buck-Morris = the dialect of seeing – arcade project

Text is suggestive that a woman on a street is either prostitute or bag lady

albus/hopper – photographs of women sitting alone – lost/trauma

Failure – despair – feelings of failure – a lonely woman – prostitute?

Don't look now 1973 - Nicholas Roeg. 

Hiring of detective but subject reverses role to lead to poiniont places of reference

Lorca di Carcia Heads (2001) NY – illumination of individuals – setting out from the crowd – creates drama on that person

Alone in the crowd till singled out some way

A lawsuit was brought against him for exhibiting a photo of someone without his or her permission.  The judge dismissed it as protected by the First Amendment.

Surveillance city – heightened security after 9/11

Sneaker Events: Birmingham

Sneaks&Peaks, is a new event based in Birmingham, as covered by article ''Sneaks&Peaks' Meet Up Event' by the Daily Street.

The event as a whole looks like it has potential to be the best sneaker event the UK has seen, that I'm aware of at least, but the branding as a whole isn't too great.

The top image shows the behind of a tattooed lady straddling a skateboard and the smallest part of a shoe that could be shown. I feel this doesn't really represent the scene, culture or what it's actually about. It reminds me of Tumblr and the way I guess in which sneakers have received a lot of coverage and exposure to the new base of customers.

The mint colour used with the branding isn't that significant a colour within sneakers and I don't know why it was picked, other than the colour being used a lot recently described as 'fresh'.

What is good? Stores

Kith, New York City, USA

Kith and Kin, known as Kith, comprises of two stores in NYC. One in Manhattan the other Brooklyn, but still both keeping the items it sells as exclusive as ever.

It is nigh on impossible to obtain certain items from Kith, let alone if you're an international customer. Recent releases have seen just in store releases and no online sales, making sneakers that are already super rare, even rarer!

 

Asics x Ronnie Fieg GL3 'Super Green'

One of my favourite sneakers of the year definitely has to be Super Green's. They're an ideal shoe in flattering tones of grey accented by different materials all over and lime green branding. The GL3 is one of the cleanest silhouettes when it comes to Asics.

This sneaker happens to be unbelievably rare, not even seeing a limited release to the public, this sneaker was handed out in Haiti to help people with no/battered shoes. Soles4Soles was the charity Kith worked with to achieve this feat, and although as nice a gesture as it is, the prices these could have sold for could have raised unreal amounts for the charity. These sneakers would easily sell for around $1000.

Hanon Shop, Aberdeen, UK

Hanon is one of the best, if not the the best, retailers in the UK. The staff are really friendly and make everyone and anyone feel welcome. Hanon boasts an impressive collection of collaborations with such brands as Asics, Adidas, Saucony and Puma to name a few.

Hanon, one of 3 UK stockists for the Nike Air Yeezy, is where I had to go to to pay for and collect the Yeezys that I won. Definitely worth the 7 hour train journey each way, but that's what it's all about.

Asics x Hanon GL3 'Wildcats'

One of my all time favourite sneakers are the Wildcats, the blocks of colour separating the sneakers into levels of solid colour shows how beautiful the silhouette for sneakers is. The burnt orange on top works in contrast with the burgundy lower section, paying homage to a dying species which calls Scotland it's home.

The Wildcats were released late in 2011 when I had insufficient funds, they stay as my all time favourite release.

24 Kilates, Barcelona, Spain

24 Kilates is one of the best European stores related to street culture, boasting collaborations with Asics, New Balance and Reebok to name a few. Collaborations result in a better customer experience and end product, usually with a wooden box, containing other accessories such as a bottle of wine.

Asics x 24 Kilates GLS 'Las Trez ZZZ'

The presentation and photography of the products is second to none. Well composed and suitable for the target audience. The whole package shows that you can get more when it comes to sneakers if you know what you're looking for.

Footpatrol, London, UK

Footpatrol is probably the most notorious shop in the UK for street culture and exclusivity. I have attended ques at the store for a release from 6am, other people had been there since the night before. I love the sense of community when there's a release, obviously there is a lot of people getting jealous and trying to push in etc, but overall the atmosphere is always good.

The store gets pretty much any release that's hard to get hold of, except store collaborations from other stores. Footpatrol is only a small location and when you walk in to the second room, you feel really homely, it's as though you were in a log cabin.

Asics x Footpatrol GSII

Boasting collaborations with Asics, Reebok, Le Coq Sportif and Adidas, which have all been sell out shoes. These limited Asics saw ques of over 100 people to obtain the shoes, started at around 6/7am. They came in a wooden box numbered to 100 and each had a screenprinted cotton drawstring bag to mark the release.

What is good? Asics

Asics has seen a lot of popularity over the past few years with sneaker collectors and more recently an explosion of hype coming from such sources as Tumblr.

Ronnie Fieg is one of the most notable characters associated withing exclusive Asics, and other sneakers, dropping at his store Kith in NYC and on their online store in super limited quantities, making them almost impossible to obtain.

The recent explosion in hype over trainers has resulted in resellers getting hold of rare pairs and selling them on for incredible mark ups.

One of the most sought after collaborations between Ronnie Fieg and Asics is the Salmon Toe.

Salmon Toes were released September 2011 instore, limited to 72 pairs and online in a similar quantity. The shoes were included in a 'collectors edition' which saw the shoes presented in a wooden box, with a Kith x Asics tee and some Kith x Asics dogtags.

The release was a success, despite prior thought as to the shoes not selling, the shoes sold out in minutes and now see resell value from $140 retail, or $200 with the box, sell for up to and over £1000.

2012 saw some release which also reached 'grail' status, such as;

Asics GT-II x Kith NYC 'Rose Gold' March 2nd 2012 release at Kith instore and online in limited quatities as usual. They sold out in seconds for the retail price of $130 and now sell for around £500.

Asics Gel-Lyte 3 x Kith NYC 'Total Eclipse' November 10th 2012 release at Kith instore and online as usual. In seconds they sold out at $145 and resell close to £500.

Other Asics collaborations this year have had huge success and none other than the Uk's finest sneaker store, FootPatrol stands out as much.

FootPatrol and Asics worked together on the Gel Saga model to produce a clean, high quality in both materials and construction, visually pleasing sneaker. The sneaker dropped only instore at FootPatrol in London which saw an exclusive release of 100 in 'collectors edition' wooden boxes, which retailed at £115, and saw ques exceeding the 100 on the morning of release.

The shoes resell for around £3-400, depending on whether the wooden box is owned.

People who buy these shoes, well, hope to own them and wear them are people who are looking for that little something extra when it comes to what sneakers to own and wear. Releases like these collaborations take sometimes years of planning and prototypes before they finally reach the market for that rush of excitement at the store or the disappointment of the 'sold out' sign appearing over the sneakers on the online store, seconds after they were released. The shoes are sold in ridiculously small quantities to make them extremely rare and are constructed by some of the best materials available adding an extra layer of luxury, as does the extras i.e wooden box or a screen printed tote bag, somewhat justifying the price and adventure/ballache to get them.

What is good? Asics

ASICS, is an acronym for the Latin phrase 'Anima Sana In Corpore Sano', which means, 'sound mine in a sound body'.

The forerunning company to Asics was Onistuka, started in Japan in 1949 by a Mr Kihachiro Onistuka. From 1950 the company became known as Onitsuka Tiger, which is still a part of modern Asics.

From the 1964 Olympics until present day various athletes still wear Onistuka Tiger or Asics shoes. 

The Tiger Mexico 66's were the first shoe to sport the stripes of Asics, made in 1966 in preparation for the Mexico Olympics in 1968.

In the 1980's Asics introduced the GEL cushioning system which boasts the ability to absorb shock by 'dissipating vertical impact and dispersing it into a horizontal plane'. In modern Asics, the GEL technology is at the forefront and sole of every shoe, literally.

In 2011 Asics launched a Global campaign titled 'Shedding'.

  The 45 second advert features runners running through a variety of terrain. All of the runners are perspiring and 'shedding' non physical attributes such as; stress, tension, worry and doubt. The words are used in a variety of different languages and appear to fall off the individuals in a typographic form. The whole motive for this campaign is show the world that Asics shoes are supreme in the sense they can relieve tension, stress, doubt and worry. Of which they can in the sense that the consumer utilizes the shoes to their full potential in whatever sport they partake.

Panopticism

Institutions and Institutional Power

Discipline is not just punitive, but also productive
Michel Foucault (1926-1984)

The great confinement (Late 1960s) – ‘houses of correction’ curb unemployment and illness

Middle ages – village idiots - No division in society between the sane and insane.

people judeged a "socially useless" sent to "houses of correction" (Mad, criminals, drunks, vagabonds, diseased, single mothers)
- Forced into labor if not

the birth of the asylum – specialist institutions

Discipline was used as if inmates where children – good = rewarded / bad= punished – no physical violence

Pre modern – physical punishment control
Institutional experts used - legitimate the institution – knowledge – rationalizing institutions – effect human consciousness / alteration/correction

Institution aimed for person to begin to take responsibility for their own behaviors and conformity in society

Pre-modern punishment – acted as a warning to others of the power

"Disciplinary society"

Discipline is apparent in every aspect of our lives
 
Jeremy Bentham's design The Panopticon proposed 1791

Institution design – more so used for the concept of prisons or asylums.

Panopticon - A cell is open from the front and lit from the back.
Decided for perfect functionality

inmates cannot see one an other, only central watch tower and supervisors – he is always being watched = fear = control
- reformation – confine – study insane – supervise workers – make work

Surveillance of bodies and training of bodies

Office structure, one way mirror people can see out but not in – fear of being watched so they work – blinds to hide if someone is inside or not

 Makes people more productive – fear increases work

- - -

Institutional Gaze

Modern discipline use of mental control - panopticism  - Understand/ thinks you are being watched.

Aspects in everyday life – cctv e.t.c

recording of behavior, we alter out actions to behave and conform – fear of punishment if not
 
e.g. attendance records – expectation to conform and be there – guilt if not/fear of punishment – monitoring – productivity increases due to fear/guilt knowing that you are monitored

records of employment – monitoring of emails and internet usage, clock in clock out cards

Disciplinary society creates 'docile bodies'
- Self monitoring
- Self-correcting
- Obedient bodies

- Docile bodies work more

soldier – docile body

Mass docility:
'The cult of health' – images and ‘guidelines’ humans use of what bodies should look like – begin to feel uncomforted and guilt for not being able to conform to ‘ideals’

Tory government in power – rising of retirement age – no reward for good health

TV – panopticon – told what to do and how we should act in society through programmes aim to unconsciously influence
 
Power is not something someone has
Power is a relationship between different individuals and groups, and only exists when it is being exercised.

Power will only exist while people allow it
'Where there is power, there is resistance.'

Key points

•Michel Foucault

•Panopticism as a form of discipline

•Techniques of the body

Docile Bodies

How Can I be Anonymous on the Internet

Amongst the guides to internet anonymity, there are guides for people who aren't so technologically experienced, promoting the use of proxy servers and the such.

This screenshot was from one such article, with the basic principles of internet anonymity.

The Gaze

‘according to usage and conventions which are at last being questioned but have by no means been overcome - men act and women appear. Men look at women. Women watch themselves being looked at’
                                                (Berger 1972)

Hans Memling

 ‘Vanity’

(1485)

The female body – presented so that the female body cannot gaze back

The eye focuses on the womans body, not her as a character

MANET - Bar at the Folies Bergeres

Self portrait – looking out

Skewed perspective.

A sadness/unhappiness/not part of the group goings on

Role of women - disaffected, no longer the passively available, sexualised

Jeff Wall ‘Picture For Women’(1979)

-the gaze is reflected by the camera

the way nudity on banners and in magazines is the norm

-       sunglasses act as a way to stop women gazing back

Peeping Tom 1960 Films her death for voyeristic purposes

Nudes are not the same for the representaion of men – more nude females

Male – active

Women – passive/ looking back

Lara Croft - A visual spectacle
An overly sexualised object
Pleasure in the fantasy of her distraction

Social Networking is used to perpetuate the male gaze/ the gaze of the media – the judgement of body ‘ideals’ for women, and the objectification of specific parts and how they should look

Reality tv shows

-       offering ‘all seeing’ power to the public like the gaze

-       editing of the shows means that reality is lost

-       contestants featured are aware of their representation

Looking is not indifferent. There can never be any question of 'just looking'.

Victor Burgin (1982)

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Reading List

John Berger (1972) Ways of Seeing, Chapter3

Victor Burgin (1982) Thinking Photography

Rosalind Coward (1984) The Look

Laura Mulvey (1973) Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema

Griselda Pollock (1982) Old Mistresses